“Who says beige is boring? A dish in which mashed potato counts as a splash of colour is not likely to win any prizes for style, but by God fish pie knows how to play to its strengths. It’s the warm, fuzzy equivalent of settling down for the Sunday afternoon film with a mug of tea ? and the perfect vehicle for all the sustainable seafood championed by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s latest campaign. Who could fail to feel a flutter for flounder, or be passionate about pollack when it comes wrapped in a creamy, savoury sauce underneath a crowd-pleasing crust of fluffy mash?”