“Cooking beef to the right doneness, especially a wildly expensive cut like rib roast, while also tending to guests, ranks with kitchen anxieties like unmolding a tarte Tatin or killing a lobster. But Ann Seranne, a food consultant and the author of more than a dozen cookbooks, solved this problem back in the 1960s. Craig Claiborne wrote that her technique “is so basic, so easily applied and so eminently satisfactory in its results, the astonishing thing is it is not universally known.” As it still isn’t, I will reprint it here once more. Please tell all your friends the news, so that rib roast can finally have its no-knead-bread moment.”