“Kopapa is not a very inviting space, with its clackety encaustic tiles and hard, stout chairs, plus I didn’t warm that much to the large and incomprehensible pillars. Perhaps they perform some structural function. Nevertheless, everything feels quite expensive. It has the perfect atmosphere for a modish business lunch; it puts the funk into functional, if you like (no, I didn’t think you would?). Peter Gordon pretty much invented the cookery style that calls itself ‘fusion’ (or, as my friend T calls it, ‘a posh word for a fridge raid’), so, if that’s the kind of thing you like, this is the place you’ll come for it. ”