“Oliver Peyton used to be the most innovative restaurateur in London, launching a string of brave and cult restaurants through the ’90s and noughties – the fabulous Atlantic Bar & Grill, Coast and Isola, among many others. These were all slightly too far ahead of the curve, and subsequently closed. In recent years, Peyton’s new catering operations have been less ambitious, and largely restricted to art galleries. The Restaurant at the Royal Academy, run by his Peyton & Byrne catering company, is a natural extension of places such as the National Dining Rooms (in the National Gallery). The setting, with high, vaulted ceilings, frescoes and pillars, is marvellous despite the car-boot-sale lighting installed by designer Tom Dixon.”