“If the biggest box-office draw in the business was racked by first-night nerves on Monday evening, he made a fine stab at masking it. One minute posing happily for a photo with the neighbouring table, the next squatting beside ours to deliver passionate, rapid-fire discourses about the provenance of his intriguingly historical menu, Heston Blumenthal appeared to be relishing his West End debut. Small wonder. It has taken a long time for the lieber Meister of snail porridge to bring his act to town, but Dinner – a sibling to the Fat Duck and the Hind’s Head in Bray – is more than worth the wait. In fact, darlings, it’s a theatrical tour de force.”