“I don’t expect much sympathy (all right, any), but visiting new restaurants can be tiring. The day’s preparation: not eating too much, avoiding scorched tastebuds from too-hot coffee, remembering pseudonym the table is booked under, and so on. To say nothing of the occasional fear involved. For instance, tonight I’m going to Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and the media frenzy and elaborate ? some might say perversely ? historically accurate menu is making me nervous. (You’ll be able to read my review in a fortnight.)”