““Faire chabrot” refers to pouring red wine into an almost finished bowl of soup, lifting it to the lips and enthusiastically draining the contents to the last drop. It is a tradition associated with south-west France and in this new Knightsbridge restaurant there is a picture of a moustachioed, horny-handed French peasant, large bottle tucked under his arm, full glass at the ready, loaf of crusty bread at his elbow, contentedly demonstrating the technique.”